Gorbeillon Ferrata, from Valmartin

Introduction

A very technical ascent with exposed sections and some short overhangs. At the end of the climb, the adrenalin rush of crossing the Tibetan bridge awaits you.

Description

Take path number (9) to the Cignana dam, which with a few hairpin bends quickly gains height in the middle of the forest, then the gradient decreases and with a few ups and downs you arrive in front of the village of Valtournenche. Following the wide path, you cross a small wooden bridge and shortly afterwards arrive near the climbing hall. Before reaching it, turn right immediately after a boulder where the numbers (14) and (15) are painted, climb up along the steep path through the scree, enter the shade of the larch trees and arrive at the start of the ferrata. As this ferrata is not suitable for beginners, it is possible to test the technical skills of beginners along the test route, which in about 10 minutes offers a taste of the difficulties that will be encountered along the way.

Test route

From the start of the ferrata, continue along the path that climbs to the right and continues almost level between the trees. When you reach the crossroads, leave the metal cable climbing to the left (return of the ferrata) and continue straight ahead through the grass until you reach the overhang. After having passed this delicate passage, all that remains is to climb up the slope until you reach the fork of the ferrata in the shade of the larches. Here, follow the cable that descends gently to the left, ignoring the ascending cable (return of the ferrata), and in a few minutes you will reach the access path again.

Ferrata route

The ferrata begins with a traverse to the south, descends three steps and then continues to the left until you reach the rock gym, where it begins to climb. You pass a delicate section under the roof, followed by an overhead traverse equipped with tiny metal slabs. At the end of the traverse you come out onto a beautiful slab from which you begin to see Lake Maen. Go past it to the belvedere and continue for a few metres on broken rocks until you reach a very corrugated slab dotted with tufts of grass. Continue along a traverse that leads to a panoramic terrace, cross a short overhang and then climb up among the tufts of grass on the right until reaching the base of the rocks smoothed by the glaciers. Climb gently to the left between the tracks left by the chamois until you come out onto a wide grassy terrace from which you can see the Maen plateau and on the right, high above, the buildings of the Promoron pumping station that bring water from the Perrères power station to the Cignana dam. One then heads north until reaching a group of plants growing above a rocky ridge beyond which the main town of Valtournenche appears. Descend the other side to the foot of the Tibetan bridge and after a rather delicate overhang a couple of metres long, cross the gully on the three steel cables. You pass a beautiful slab at the end of which, from a little green meadow, you can see the unmistakable outline of the Matterhorn and the descent begins. For the return, follow the track that heads flat northwards, leaving out the one that climbs and leads onto the path that connects Perrères to Promoron. You almost immediately find the steel cable of the ferrata and begin the descent through the grass dotted with rare, slightly more challenging sections of rock. After a short stretch of path, the ferrata resumes with an almost horizontal traverse that leads to a group of larches. Here the itinerary splits and it is necessary to continue to the right, southwards on a slight incline, ignoring the section that descends more steeply towards the valley floor. After a rocky drop of a couple of metres, you reach the path that takes you back to the start in a few minutes.