Ortles
Edited by:
Massimo Martini
Last Visit: 12/11/2025
Introduction
Description
Information sheet
Height: 3905m
Alternative name: Ortler
Mountain group: Ortler Group
First ascent: 27/09/1804
First ascender: Joseph Pichler
Description
Climbing Routes
- North ridge and slope (PD+)
- North face, via Holl (ED-)
- North Face, Ertl route (TD)
- North-northeast ridge, Rothbock-Grat route (D+)
- North-East Ridge, via Marlt Grat (D)
- East gully, Schuck-Rinne route (D-)
- East-southeast ridge, via Hinter Grat (AD-)
- South-southeast gully, via Minnigerode-Rinne (D-)
- South Face (AD-)
- East face and south ridge, via Harpprecht-Rinne (AD-)
- South ridge, High ridge (D-)
- from west to the 3755m shoulder of the south ridge, via Pirovano (D+)
- from west to the 3755m shoulder of the south ridge, via Drescher-Kossler (D+)
- south-west face, Tomasson route (AD)
- south-west face (AD-)
- south-west face, Soldà-Pirovano route (TD)
- central pillar of the south-west wall, Messner route (TD)
- south-west wall
- north-west ridge and the Corno di Plàies, via Merano (AD-)
- from the north-west to the Vallone di Plàies (AD-)
- north-west face (D)
Appoggi
- Julius Payer Refuge (3029m)
- Coston Refuge (2661m)
- Tabaretta Refuge (2556m)
- Borletti/Bergl Hut (2188m)
- Città di Cantù Bivouac (3527m)
- Pelliccioli Bivouac (3230m)
Access routes
- North ridge and slope (PD+) .
- North Face, Holl Route (ED-)
- North Face, Ertl Route (TD)
- North-east Ridge, Rothbock-Grat route (D+)
- Northeast Ridge, via Marlt Grat (D)
- East Ridge, via Schuck-Rinne (D-)
- East-Southeast Ridge, via Hinter Grat (AD-)
- South-southeast gorge, via Minnigerode-Rinne (D-)
- South Wall (AD-)
- East face and south ridge, via Harpprecht-Rinne (AD-)
- South ridge, High ridge (D-)
- from the west to the 3755m shoulder of the south ridge, via Pirovano (D+)
- from the west to the 3755m shoulder of the south ridge, via Drescher-Kossler (D+)
- Southwest ridge, via Tomasson (AD)
- South-west wall (AD-)
- South-west wall, Soldà-Pirovano Street (TD)
- central pillar of the south-west wall, via Messner (TD)
- west-south-west wall
- north-west ridge and the Corno di Plàies, via Merano (AD-)
- north-west to the Plàies gorge (AD-)
- North-west wall (D) .