Monte Matto, Cima Est

Description

This is the sinuous descending gully on the left of the third elevation, to the right of the Cima Est del Matto, clearly visible from the hut, especially in the upper part where it is more marked. From the hut, follow the itinerary for the Cresta Est del Matto as far as below the vertical of the gully. Climb the basal base along steep slopes to the foot of the gully at an altitude of 2650 m. Continue up the gully with a 45-50° slope until the upper narrowing, where it steepens with 60° stretches and ends near a col of the crest at an altitude of about 2,920 metres. Descent on the opposite slope until it crosses the normal for the Cima Est.Beautiful climb in a solitary and severe environment.Difference in height 300 m. + 250 m. of skirting. Difficulty AD+ D-. Materials: ice and rock pitons. First climbers: F.Scotto and A.Siri, 9 June 1985.