Monte Leone, normal route from the Simplon Pass

Introduction

Classic summer ascent, but also splendid ski-mountaineering, starting from the Simplon Pass, which can be done in one day with an overnight stay at the pass hospice. For those who like to bivouac, or simply struggle over such sensitive altitude differences, it is possible to split the trip into two days with an overnight stay in a tent at the base of the Breithorn glacier. Remaining on its left edge, the glacier has no crevasses, which are also absent on the plateau above access to the S ridge of Monte Leone. This consists of boulders piled up without any particular difficulty (F), but rather airy on both sides, so caution is required, especially if snow is present.

Description

From the car park of the hospice, go directly up the steep path behind the hospice, a path that then flattens out and enters the Chaltaasser valley leading to the Swiss hut of the same name. Follow this path until crossing the stream at the first rocks (plateau at an altitude of 2516m). Leave the path here and ascend to the right between scree and ice-smoothed rocks, heading towards the Hubschhorn. Having passed the rocky rib that descends directly from the WSW ridge of the Lion, climb up to the foot of the glacier, where you can pitch your tent on one of the numerous snow tongues present. The following day, one ascends the glacier, keeping to the left, non-cracked bumps. This leads to the plateau at an altitude of about 3300 m, which can be traced back to the Alpjergletscher, which is crossed in a wide semi-arc from left to right (descending in the initial part, losing about 100 m in altitude) until reaching the S ridge of the Lion, which is climbed up to the summit amidst piled boulders and easy rocks.