Mont Blanc du Tacul

Access

Exit the motorway at Courmayeur, follow the signs for the Mont Blanc tunnel and then for Val Ferret. As soon as you leave the road that leads to the tunnel, at a hairpin bend, you will immediately find a large car park, or, if you continue by car, you will find two more car parks at the cable car departure station and, with this, you will drive up to the Rifugio Torino.

Introduction

Various ascent on snow-ice in a grandiose and scenic environment, somewhat exposed to falling ice and to be tackled very early in the morning due to the eastern exposure. The height difference of the route is 700 metres.

Description

We leave the hut and with an easy glacier path, very well marked, we first cross Col Flambeaux (3407m), overlooked by the aerial pylon of the gondola, then turn left and descend north-westwards to a glacier plateau. From here, up and down, we cross an area with large crevasses and, once we reach the Pic Adolphe at an altitude of about 3200m, we begin the ascent of the wide slope at the base of the complex north-east face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. On reaching the saddle of the Col du Gros Rognon (3415m), open between the Pionte Lachenal on the left and the Gros Rognon on the right, the summit of which is touched by the gondola, turn left onto the plateau to reach the base of the snowy slope to the left (east) of the north face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Pass the terminal crevasse at the best point, which is very open at the end of the season, and climb a steep slope to the left of the shoulder rocks to reach, in the middle of the overhanging rocks, an ice channel located between them and the hanging glacier. One exits this gully after having overcome a very steep section (a passage up to 80° for the serac) and climbs the final goulotte, with slopes of up to 50°-55°, which leads to the summit of the Triangle du Tacul (sometimes one has to pierce the cornice). From this point, continue along the easy north ridge, paying attention to the ledges to the east.

Descent

There are two options for the descent, depending on weather or physical conditions:

1. Go up the north ridge to the hump before the summit to descend the normal route.
2. You climb the first part of the north ridge and with a large traverse to the right you descend on the slopes to the north-west and reach the normal route.

On reaching the Col du Midi you retrace your route on the way up to reach the rifugio Torino. The ascent can also be made starting from the nearest Refuge des Cosmiques, easily reached from the arrival of the cable car that climbs from Chamonix to the summit of the Aiguille du Midi. From here, descend along the sharp east ridge and, having reached the glacier plateau, follow the numerous tracks that lead to the clearly visible refuge.